The San Francisco, CA Fil Am Ethno TourTourguide: MC Canlas, Community Strategist
Organization:
Bayanihan Community CenterOur Fulbright group decided to meet in San Francisco on Nov. 11, 2006 for an ethno tour of the Fil Am historical sites in San Francisco, Ca. Many of us are not from San Francisco, and even the teachers from San Francisco have never heard of the "Fil Am ethno tour."
The tour starts at the Bayanihan Community Center (BCC) located on 6th and Mission St in the South of Market. This is the building that houses the Veterans Equity Center, Arkipelago Books, and the BCC. It was owned by the Borja family and it was a residential hotel when it was sold. The Borja family negotiated with the buyer that the first floor and basement should remain as Filipino Community spaces. The entire building is called Bayanihan House. The Filipino American Development Foundation (FADF) is the main nonprofit organization that oversees the activities of the above resources.
Nov. 11 is Veterans Day. When we arrived at 10:30am, there were groups of college students and Fil Am vets with their families with the placards and banners about to board a San Francisco tram headed for the Veterans Day Parade. It was great to see this intergenerational gathering.
MC started the tour with a powerpoint presentation about Manila Town. Starting with a historical background about the structure and spatial arrangement of barangays/villages in precolonial times, MC shared how these arrangements shifted during Spanish colonial period where the plaza became the center of community life. The plaza-barangay relationship is reconfigured in Filipino diasporic communities in a sort of reversal. MC likens the plaza to the suburban community like Daly City and the South of Market as the barangay -- the center of rural life where bayanihan values are still strong as this is usually the entry point for newly-arrived immigrants from the Philippines.
Usually unbeknownst to the newly arrived immigrant is the rich Filipino history in San Francisco: the I-Hotel, Delta Hotel, the streets named after Mabini, Bonifacio, Lapi-lapu, the Filmore, the Dewey marker, The Filipino Education Center, Fil Am community service providers – health services, legal services, Victoria Manalo Graves Park, Tutubi Children’s Park, St Patrick’s Church, Bindlestiff Theater, KulArts.
As immigrants eventually move from the South of Market (barangay) to the suburbs (plaza), the immigrants take with them their cultural experiences and maintain an ongoing ties between the suburb and the city.
Until the Filipino American Development Foundation (where MC is the Community Strategist) conceptualized a Manila Town in the South of Market and framed it with indigenous concepts of Bayanihan (working together), Barangay (basic community unit), Looban (inner core community), Kanlungan (nurture), Karangalan (cultural integrity and pride), Malasakit (caring for each other), Katatagan (social sustainability) – was it able to articulate the need to appropriate and negotiate with development agencies, government agencies, developers, cultural agencies – the spaces of visibility for the Fil Am Community. What was even more important is the “buy-in” by the community – a vision that wasn’t really that difficult to invest in.
Perhaps I was merely witnessing a more mature community, a decolonized community, a community with a wealth of resources (financial, cultural, political, human capital, and intellectual), a community with a vision that transcends the common pitfalls of organizing projects of this scale. A community that is able to take its seat at the big table and stake its claim.
We dropped by St Patrick’s Church to check if MC has any participants for an 11:30am parol lantern workshops. We arrived just at the Catechism class was on its way out and we were introduced to a Filipino nun who taught the class. A buffet lunch was being served as we proceeded with the tour. But first a stop next door at a Fil Am-owned Japanese subsidiary of a cream puff store. We ordered the green tea flavor of the week. Next stop: Bloomingdale?
MC took us to the new Bloomingdale 5th Floor where the Filipino Cultural Center is (or is going to be) located. Bloomingdale has agreed to provide a space for FCC at the rental cost of $1/year. The catch? FCC will have to spend for the finishing touches to the space – about $1.5M. FADF will have to raise this amount of money. So far, the scheduled opening of FCC in January 2007 may be unlikely as the money is still being raised. But everywhere all the signs point the way to the Filipino Cultural Center.
This is the way MC explained it: Whereas ethnic towns are usually spatially-designated and demarcated, the imprint of Filipino American history and the continuing presence of Fil Ams in San Francisco (and beyond) can be seen in the spaces where Filipinos have made their mark within and among the city’s commercial and cultural heritage sites.
When we returned to the BCC, the veterans and the college students were having lunch, working on petitions for the passage of the Veteran Equity Bill, and college students taking cha-cha lessons from the Veterans or their wives. What a beautiful sight!
Next time you are in San Francisco, ask for an ethno tour.